How to Make a Crocheted Dishcloth--Easy Pattern Using Half Double Crochet.

Why make your own crocheted dishcloths?

Handwoven dishcloths are attractive-looking and are sturdy and absorbent. Many who use crocheted dishcloths actually prefer them for kitchen cleaning tasks.

These dishcloths can be crocheted in record time and can be made up around the holidays and given out as gifts.

The pattern below is my own, for a basic, no-fuss--no-muss crocheted dishcloth. This dishcloth is worked in half double crochet stitch and the edging is worked using single crochet. Nothing could be easier and if you just want basic dishcloths using easy-to-execute stitches, this pattern will stand you in good stead.

Stitch Key

• CH = chain stitch

• HDC = half double crochet stitch (YO, through stitch, YO, back trhough, YO & pull through 3 loops)

• SC = single crochet stitch (through stitch, YO, back through, YO & pull through 2 loops)

• SS = slip stitch (through stitch, YO, pull through stitch and through loop on hook)

Your dishcloth is only as good as your cotton . . .

When I first tried my hand at making crocheted dishcloths, I mistakenly used yarn. I found to my dismay that my dishcloths did not have the right absorbent quality. My dishcloths slid over the counter leaving water behind and were clearly not up to the task. (I opted to use these cloths for heat pads to protect my dining room table from hot casserole dishes) I wondered if I needed to knit the dishcloths to achieve the right absorbency.

I discussed this problem with the saleslady in the craft section of a department store and mentioned that my crocheted dishcloths did not perform as did their knitted counterparts. She mentioned that for handmade dishcloths, whether knitted or crocheted, one had to buy the correct crochet cotton. She directed me to the yarn section and sure enough I saw balls of crochet cotton with dishcloths on the front.

While still somewhat skeptical, I purchased a large ball of "dishcloth yarn." I noticed that it had a thread-like quality and was less fuzzier than the standard yarn. That got me thinking: anyone who is familiar with doilies made from cotton thread knows that when they get wet, they are very absorbent. Maybe the saleslady was on to something after all, I thought.

SIZE 4 HOOK to make this crocheted dishcloth.

Row 1: Chain 25, Ch 2 (forms first HDC).

Row 2: HDC in third stitch from hook and work across row. Count to ensure that you have 25 stitches, CH 2 turn.

Rows 3-16: Continue working HDC in each stitch across each row, CH 2 at end of each row before turning to work next row.

Row 17: Check to make sure that beginning tail of thread is on your left. Work across final row.

Edging: Do not turn dishcloth, rather, continue around outer edge SC in each opening and using 2 SC in corners (if "dishing" occurs: 1 SC, Ch 1, 1 SC in corners). Finish off with SS in end. Incorporate thread ends on back side of dishcloth.

You will place your hook through more than one loop. The video shows placing your hook through a chain and hence under one loop. Because you will be working around the edge of your dishcloth the edge will be different and you can work your SC under 2-3 strands so your edging is sturdy. The main thing is to SC in openings in an even fashion around edge. Once you do one cloth you will notice a pattern of openings around the edges, which makes edging easier.

I like to store my crochet yarn, hooks, scissors and patterns in a large handled basket. This keeps all my supplies in one spot and I can carry my crocheting into whichever room I'm working a project in.

If you tend to stock up on yarn, a basket is the perfect catch-all for all those balls.

If you prefer to use a larger SIZE 5 HOOK, simply work 20 HDCs across row and edge twice in SC. You will see how I have done this for this same dishcloth in variegated cotton below.

Because this dishcloth is slightly smaller, work fewer horizontal rows--about 15 rows to make it into a square.

Crochet two rows of single crochet around edge and finish off (2 SC in each corner on first round and SC in each stitch all the way around on second round). Check that corners stay flat. If dishing occurs, add 1 CH between SC on corners on last row of edging. Because each person's tension differs, small adjustments may be necessary.

When you make a crocheted dishcloth, you do not have to edge it, necessarily; however, adding a row or two of edging will help your dishcloth stand up to wear and gives it a finished look.

Fancier edging could easily be added to make these cloths look more attractive.

After using them, if you find you prefer crocheted dishcloths instead of cloth dishcloths, a pattern book might be a good investment because you could try your hand at making a variety of dishcloths with different edgings.

For the beginning crocheter, making crocheted dishcloths is a good way to become familiar with the different crochet stitches and edgings. Starting on a smaller project can be satisfying, as well, because in short order, even the beginner crocheter can turn out useful items.

Seasoned crocheters may also find a pattern book helpful, especially if they want to move beyond a basic dishcloth and make fancier cloths. Having patterns on hand makes for easy reference.

I'm happy to report that my dishcloths do a great job of cleaning counters. I hope others, who have experienced the same problem with absorbency, will find this information helpful.

It is relatively easy to make a handmade crocheted dishcloth or make any number of them. Making your own dishcloths can be a satisfying endeavor--you get to choose your colors and experiment with sizes, instead of settling for pre-set colors and sizes in store-bought dishcloths. Some crocheters double up on their crochet cotton for even sturdier crocheted dishcloths.

Copyright Athlyn Green

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